Sunday, April 4, 2021

Zirat of Quttubudin Khana-Badush



 Segment Humane!

M S Nazki 

The radio that would be heard no more since the listener fell silent after he got to the age of 91 years in Harni, Mendhar!

This is a story of an ordinary man who never liked the materialistic life, his only companion was his wife because they never had any children!

* Thus the animals in forms of goats, sheep and dogs which they tamed became their only close ones! Not yet another nomad but a special of his and of her own kind!

* No one knew as to what mettle he was made up of, but he was a strong Gujjar who in his younger days wondered about along with his wife and flock as the wandering nomads do.

* But after 91 years of age he fell silent as everyone of has to, leaving his wife at 63 years of age desolate and silent.

 * The place is in the shadows of pines, somber, calm and cool. It always was still till the man Quttubuddin S/o Sain Miran, R/o Bandia Chechian Poonch did not switch on his radio. The people of Harni always said that this man does not seem to get old. But just four days back he vanished to nowhere leaving little or no legacy behind! That’s what life of a nomads is. Agree or disagree that is the truth.

In no way I/m writing a tragedy, ode or an elegy or some deft tear jerking prose. It’s just something about the people who keep moving about in the mountains and hills rearing up sheep and goats (male ones) so that our stomachs pining in for flesh are fulfilled. This man from Chechian (Poonch) too was in the same segment of nomadic professionals. No wrong or harm but when he definitely decided to settle down in Harni in a small flat space he still did not know why he loved the place because till death he never moved out elsewhere. Accompanying him was his wife Lal Jaan. Trust me the nomads too have a fascinating love story which was spiritual in nature till one of them departed. It is always is the story of every man/woman or preferably I would put it across as history of mankind!

No one in Harni would have even noticed the death because everything was silent four days back. The sheep goats were not bleating or scowling and the famous the (the loveable but dangerous dogs of his) who were the guards of a tent house were not barking. Neither was the radio buzzing. For years together Lal Jan and Sain (as Qutubuddin was called as) had a routine well known to the people. The dogs as always hungry used to wake up and the flock began bleating to release them off the shackles of their canine friends because without them they had no protection to graze around although they were born free and of course Sain switching on his favorite radio full pitch. What he heard no one knew but some Gojri programs on what we call as Radio Kashmir Jammu, All India Radio  he always tuned into. In Covid-19 Times he used to be over expressive, wanted to speak his heart but never got a chance. But with men like Pradeep Khanna in Poonch his wife may well! She has plenty to share because she does not have a child. But before that, I have an incident to quote:

Lal Jan knew that Quttubddin had breasted the tape since age cannot be limitless as far humans go even if they do not ever fall sick in their entire life. Her husband had never. She also knew that they did not have the paper money, so necessary to survive. They had grown up on the flock of animals they had reared up and sold. But now they had given up on that also because Sain had gone spiritual. Lal Jan distinctly told me, ‘why carry them as babies, rear them and then sell them for human consumption’? I was befuddled and then I retraced my steps back but when I heard the story going around it was a shocker for me, ‘ Sain had no relatives of his but Lal Jaan has. Her relatives told her to sell her stock off so that money for sustenance can be made and deposited’. She refused and responded, ‘I have nothing of my own, what I had has gone, buried under the soil, the animals are my children and I will rear many more as they arrive and two of them (lambs) are just too small’. This moved me no end but the about dogs left me crest fallen because Lal Jaan had this to say, ‘he used to go once in a week to Mendhar to collect chicken internals for the dogs. The shop owners would give it free of cost. He would come back, spend most part of the evening cleaning up and then boiling them up to serve his pets. They loved it. But it’s me who would have to do it now and that I will do ’! That is why they say the dogs brought by Nomads are favorites with anyone perhaps a step ahead of the pedigreed ones or maybe they are of a different type altogether!

But one thing I realized in Mendhar. The people love each other. Thousands have already the visited the tent sight where this family of a very different kind lived for so many years and is still. The people always did help the desolate couple and now also after the death of Quttubudin they have organized a massive food distribution point (Langar). People from all over the places are coming in and paying tributes not because he was great but because he was humane. This is exactly what India has preached to the world. For me as I walked away from the silent tent from where the radio used to blare and now only the sounds of silence would be heard. The slim, trim but now bent from the spine (as we all will once in future) Sain is destined to be seen no more. He did teach brotherhood of man for sure and that is why I wrote this story of yet another unknown nomad! But I feel sorry for 63 year old Lal Jaan. No doubt people will help her out but if the administration, even has a peep into her whole story and consider her worth helping, it would be a great super turner for those who consider that the Government does not know the ground realities and does! May be the tent gets converted into an institution of love between all the living beings on planet earth! Trust me it can be done! And mind you it is being done elsewhere in the Nation!

Friday, April 2, 2021

Tehsil Mendhar


 

Mendhar  Valley of Poonch
M S NAZKI

Mendhar is also
known as 'The
green valley of Poonch'. Presently, Mendhar is a tehsil of Poonch district located at the southern side of the district. The Tehsil is bounded by Shahstar range of mountains in the northern side; Bhimber Gali top in the east; Khandhar range of mountains in the southern side, while Poonch river divides the tehsil from the western side.
Before independence, Mendhar was the 4th tehsil of erstwhile Poonch principality with its headquarter at Dharmsal. This tehsil had an of 470 square miles besides 90 square miles area of Thakiala Prava. After partition the whole of Thakiala area came under Pakistan. In 1972 Mendhar tehsil was divided into two tehsils on administrative grounds namely tehsil Mendhar and tehsil Surankote. Presently, tehsil Mendhar is located exactly on the border. 14 villages of the tehsil are touching the LOC. The LOC is spread over 43 kilometers from Tarkundi in the east to Mandla in the south.
Tehsil Mendhar comprises of 57 inhabited villages and 64 panchayats. As per census 2001, the total population of Mendhar was 1.13 lacs, while the projected population of 2010 is 1.77 lacs. Out of the total population about 4500 belongs to Hindu and Sikh communities residing in Mendhar town, Bhera, Harni, Mankote, Sagra, Ari, Dharana, Gohlad etc. On the other hand, the villages located on the slopes of mountains and upper reaches are dominated by Gujjar and Bakerwal community. The population of Mendhar tehsil is considered more prosperous than the other areas of district Poonch. Mendhar is also known for the ancient Ramkund Temple of 8th century AD constructed by Raja Lalita Ditya of Kashmir, Ziarat Hazrat Pir Chhotey Shah Sakhi Maidan, Takiya Sharief of Hazrat Ghulam Shah Badshah, Kalaban and Ziarat Sharief Chhajla. Mendhar is also known for an Old Bowali of Harni where around 1680 AD, Lachamdass alias Banda Beragi of Rajouri had killed a female deer. Later on, he became the disciple of Tenth Guru Gobind Singh and fought a number of battles in Punjab.
The history of Mendhar travels with the Indian civilization. As per a legend, Pandvas had visited Mendhar during their exile period. They had also constructed a very high tower at Mendhar near Sakhi Maidan. It is said that Kunti, the mother of Pandvas desired that she wanted to see her ancestral city Inderprast. Immediately, Bhima constructed so high a tower at Sakhi Maidan Mendhar, that Kunti could see her native town. There are a number of bowalies, ruins of Pandavas time in the tehsil. The legend goes that these monuments were constructed by the Pandavas.
As per the "History of India" by R.K Mukherji and "2500 years of Budhism" by P.V Bhapat one Greek Governor Manindra (161 BC-130 BC) was ruling Punjab. In those days Mendhar area was a part of his kingdom. Manindra had revolted against Greeks and declared himself as an independent ruler. Since the whole population of his kingdom was the believer of Budhism at that time, therefore, Manindra was also interested in Budhist philosophy. He had approached many priests and interacted with them about Budhism. But no monk was in a position to convince him in discussion. It was by chance he met a Budhist monk namely Naga Sinha who replied all the questions raised by Manindra about Budhism. At the end of this discussion Manindara was filled with spiritual joy and became a disciple of Naga Sinha.
P.V Bapat writes that Manindra had build a monastery in memory of his discussion with Naga Sinha and named it as Manindra Vihara. Mr. A Koul in his book 'Budhism in Kashmir' writes that the discussion between Naga Sinha and Manindra was held in the southern side of Kashmir valley about 20 yojans from the valley. The famous book on Budhism "Malinda Panaha" written by King Manindra refers to his intimate knowledge of Kashmir and its surrounding areas. Jyotisher Pathic, a renowned writer of Jammu writes in one of his articles published in "Sheraza" Urdu that the place where the discussion between Naga Sinha and Manindra was held is present Mendhar valley of Poonch. There is an old structure in Mendhar at Sakhi Maidan. The architecture of this structure is Indo Greek in style. It clearly indicates that in the ancient time this was a monastery. Presently, this whole valley is known as Mendhar. The local legend goes that the name of Mendhar is after the name of a King. These facts reveal that this King was Manindra, who had constructed a Manindra Vihara at present Sakhi Maidan where the discussions between Manindra and Naga Sinha had taken place. It appears that this place was initially named as Maninder Vihara. Later on with the passage of time it became Manindra which changed to Mendhar.
In 850 AD, when Poonch principality was established by Nara, Mendhar was a part of this principality. This principality remained intact upto 1452 AD when Sultan Zain-ul-Abdin captured the outer hills of Pir Panchal region and established a new outer hill state Poonch-Nowshera under the name of Bhaya Desa Vinah. Mendhar also became a part of this new principality. In 1596 AD a newly converted Muslim Saraj-ud-Din Rathore became the Raja of Poonch principality on the order of Emperor Akbar. Mendhar area came under his control. From 1596 to 1819 AD Poonch remained the principality of Rathore Rajas and Sangu Gujjar Rajas and Mendhar was the part of this principality. In 1852 AD Maharaja Gulab Singh of J&K nominated his nephew Mian Moti Singh, the Raja of Poonch. Moti Singh came to Poonch and established a new principality. Mendhar valley became a part of this principality along with Thakiala Prava area of Kotli. C.E Bats writes in his book 'The Gazetteer of Kashmir' that in 1872 AD, Mendhar was a township and known as Dharamsal with hundred houses on the right bank of Mendhri stream having mixed population. In 1905 AD Capitan R.E.A Hamilton completed the first settlement of Poonch. On administrative grounds, he divided the principality into four tehsils and Mendhar became the largest tehsil in area of the principality. This tehsil also remained a large grain producer of Poonch upto 1947.
During the happening of 30th July 1931 AD in Kashmir, the uprising also started in Poonch area especially in Mendhar tehsil. On 2nd January 1932, the people of Thakiala Prava of Mendhar revolted against the state government and marched towards Poonch. The Raja Jagat Dev Singh of Poonch with the help of Muslim Suddans of tehsil Plandri succeeded in subsiding the revolt but the movement of Kashmir had given birth to a strong political leadership in Mendhar headed by Sardar Fateh Mohd Khan Karelvi. In 1932 AD on the recommendations of Glancy Commission 75 members Legislative Assembly had come into existence under the name of Praja Sabha. Three seats were alloted to Poonch principality. Sardar Fateh Mohd Khan Karelvi of Mendhar was elected MLA from Haveli-Mendhar constituency. He was again elected to Praja Sahba in 1937. During the turmoil of 1947 Mendhar tehsil was captured by the rebel forces and Pakistani Army under the command of Lieutenant Colonel Rehmatulla, a deserter of state forces. About two thousand Hindu and Sikh had become hostage to rebel forces. In this crucial time, Sardar Fateh Mohd Khan Karelvi played a vital role and protected hundreds of Hindu families and helped them to mgrate to Indian side. In 1948 AD, operation link up was started by India forces from Rajouri towards Poonch under the command of Brigadier Yadav Nath Singh. The Indian forces after capturing an important hill top Pir Bardeshwar on 14th October and Pir Kaleva on 26th October in Rajouri area moved towards Mendhar via Manjakote. Bhimber Gali was taken over on 8th November 1948. At that time Mendhar town was the centre of rebel forces and Pakistan army. But Indian forces continued their advance via Mendhar towards Poonch. On 20th November Pir Topa an important feature in Mendhar was captured. On 23rd NovemberIndian forces moved via Jhakha Gali, stormed Mendhar town and captured it. In the next few days all the important hill tops of Khandar range from Balakote upto to Daruchian were taken and Mendhar tehsil was liberated. Presently, the green valley, Mendhar of district Poonch is leading the other areas in over all developmental scenario and political setup.

The writer is a working journalist can be mailed at msnazki123@gmail.com
 

Hazrat Pir Baba Haider Ali Shah


 Thousands of people paid their obeisance at the shrine of Peer Baba Haider Shah Mast Kalandar near the Line of Control in Mendhar during three day Urs Mela which concluded today.

This three day Urs Mela at the shrine of  Peer Baba is organized every year  at village Chhajla in Mendhar Sub Division of district Poonch. The shrine is located just closer to the LoC and similar Mela is organised by the people living on that side of the LoC in Pak occupied Kashmir.  The people from Poonch and Rajouri besides other adjoining districts visit the shrine during Urs. The Administration had made elaborate arrangements for the smooth conduct of religious program at the shrine.
Some guests from PoK, who had come here to meet their relatives via Chakkan-da-Bagh also paid visit to the shrine and told that on that side of the LoC also massive rush of devotees is witnessed during Urs. They said people on that side also have great faith on the Shrine of Peer Baba Shah Mast Kalandar and said that such shrines at borders give message of peace, brotherhood  and love to the people on both the sides.

Sain Illahi Baksh

Ziarat Sain Illahi Bakash Sahib

The famous Ziarat of Sain Illahi Bakhsh Sahib is located in village Battalkote in Mandi block of Poonch district. This place is 37 kms on the north of Poonch town and about 4 kms. from Loran. Battalkote is the last inhabited but most beautiful and attractive village and is located in between the southern hills of Peer Panchal range and confluence of streams Nain Sukh and Nandishool. The shrine is located in the heart of village on the sloppy land and grassy ridge. This sacred place is surrounded by snow capped peaks, thick belt of forests, beautiful maize fields and crystal clear streams. The scenic beauty and geography of this place resembles with Gulmarg of Kashmir. A great Soofi Saint, Sain Illahi Bakhsh Sahib, had selected this place keeping in view its natural beauty. The God-fearing Sain Illahi Bakhsh Sahib came to Battalkote around 1948 AD and passed rest of his life in this very place till his death. He was a soofi saint, preacher of brotherhood and worked for humanity. He spread the message of love, affection and brotherhood of Soofi-Ism among the public and inspired not only muslims but Hindus and Sikhs also. He was true soofi, remained unmarried and passed his life as a Darvesh. Sain Illahi Bakhsh Sahib died on 16th of May,1976. Four days before his death, he told his devotees that his last time has come. He identified the place for his grave and asked the devotees to keep his body open for three days for public before burial. At present, the Urs of Sain Sahib is organised every year in the month of May. Thousands of people visit the shrine from Mandi, Poonch and outside state also irrespective of caste, creed and participate in the function. With active participation of non-muslims in the Urs, the programme has become the symbol of composite cultural heritage. Thousands of Hindus and Sikhs apart from Muslims participate in the function and this colourful programme becomes the identity of brotherhood, religious tolerance and love and affection for other communities.

 

Hisab's Shrine

 

Shrine Of Hisab

___________________

This shrine is situated at Sub Village of Qasba. This Sub Village comes under the Frontier Tehsil Mendhar. Its District is Poonch.  Sometimes ago,the Valley of Poonch was being declared as a "Mini Kashmir" or Chota Kashmir by Mughalian Kings. Or Mughal Era.

The District Poonch comes under the Union Territory of Jammu and Kashmir (UT_J&K) right now.  Sub Village Qasba's  Panchayat is Takia Kalaban. This Panchayat has recently been come into the existence in the year of 2019,by the great efforts of Advocate Maroof Khan.  Advocate Maroof Khan is a senior leader of Peoples Democratic Party (PDP). He is of course a scoping personality. 


What People Say About Hisab

________________________________

Locals of Sub Village, Qasba and adjoing Sub Village of Kote Qasba  [The locals of Mohra,Kote and Tarakote ] say that they have already been given details about the Hisab's Pir by their Parents as well as Grand Parents that is in this way:

There was a Pir who  living at this Place. Some other persons of this village informed to writer, Qari Rameez Raja Sustani that sometime the Pir of Hisab was seen and after then he went disappear. No one knew that where he went.

Locals also informed that they have listened  to their Parents and Grand Parents that said Pir Sahib had come from "Pakistan" Maltan and stayed for sometime here. Some said that Pir Sahib often Prayed sitting in the Cave during the Rainy Season and in the Sun, he was used to call his Allah and Rasulallah.  But he soonly been disappeared from the scene.


About Pir's Name

___________________

Some Educated people of the said area described that Pir Name was Namdar Ali Shah. Some have such opinion that his name was Nughal Ali Shah.

One old person, Molvi Sadiq Manhas said that it is true that Pir Name was Namdar Ali Shah. Chacha Kareem Baksh (Kareema) also told that Pir's Name was Namdar Ali Shah.

Some educated persons believed that the Mohalla Nagal Ban or Place Name "Nagal" is related with the name of  'Nughal' and some said that Pir's name was Qusab Shah,so this reason , the name of Qasba has come into the existence. Or strike to the name of Qasba.


His Death Place

___________________

In the search, about his Death Place there is no sign on the place of his sitting place Hisab. No any sign of Pir's grave is there. But some old souls of the said Area, told that his death place was happened at Hisab but it can not be seen right now. 

No sign of his grave can be found anywhere  at Hisab 

This Article Is Written By Qari Rameez Raja Sustani